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Whale Water Pressure Switch Replacement
#1
Have you ever had that dreaded DuDuDuDu sound in your Motorhome/Caravan, indicating that you have a drop in pressure which could indicate a slight water leak in your pressurised water system? I did and after thoroughly checking my system, found the cause to be an out of balance pressure switch.
So during the recent lockdown, with me being unable to go to my dealers in Norfolk, I decided to have a go at sorting it myself.
I found an adjustment explanation on the Whale website and promptly applied that to my switch, (after first having to dismantle the rear lounge seat supports to give me access). Result, no good, after trying numerous times, the result was the same, the dreaded DuDuDuDu. I decided that a new switch was the best solution. Having sourced one on line, I set about the task of replacing it. To gain access so as to get two hands on the job, I had to further dismantle the seat support and the water inlet pipe to allow me to remove the water tank stays and slide the tank foreword to gain the desired space to allow me to get two hands on the job. Below you can see the position of the pressure switch.
[Image: IMG-20201119-153811.jpg]

[Image: IMG-20201119-1535587-rewind-kindlephoto-22719250.jpg]
The black rectangle is my main water tank.
Now that I had the space, the switch was easily unscrewed from the floor and the two electrical connections disconnected. Having emptied the water tank before I moved it, I knew that there wouldn't be a lot of water in the lines, as I had also purged the lines prior to commencing. However, I did put old towels underneath the connectors to catch the residual water in the switch. The quick release connectors were a bit fiddly to undo at first, but once you get the knack easy enough to undo. Once disconnected, it was a simple matter of retracing my steps, filling the water tank and purging the system of air locks. After making sure all the air was out of the lines to all taps shower and water heater, I then sat and waited for the dreaded DuDuDuDu......success, I waited and waited, no noise, I opened various taps and shower independently and after each tap closed the switch allowed pressure to build up again and then cut the pump off.
If any of you need assistance with a fault, let the forum know, there is a lot of knowledge hidden behind these avatars. thumbup
There is also a service kit available to refurbish the pressure switch, but having to dismantle such a lot to gain access, I decided on a new part.
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#2
On reflection, should this thread be in Technical Help and Advice? If so, can it be moved please?
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#3
Well done, AD. Hope that I don't have to try the same on mine.
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#4
(19-11-2020, 08:56 PM)nelliethehooker Wrote: Well done, AD. Hope that I don't have to try the same on mine.

I'm think that your pressure switch may be incorporated into your water inlet connection nellie. It's easy enough to replace, but just so inaccessible in my case.
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#5
(20-11-2020, 12:42 AM)AlfiesDad Wrote:
(19-11-2020, 08:56 PM)nelliethehooker Wrote: Well done, AD. Hope that I don't have to try the same on mine.

I'm think that your pressure switch may be incorporated into your water inlet connection nellie. It's easy enough to replace, but just so inaccessible in my case.

Thanks, AD thumbup
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#6
I've also been doing some work on my water system these last few days.   You will all know that when you open the drain valve before returning home, a lot of the water remains in the hot water pipework.   In fact, all the water below the level of the tank's top union remains in the pipes - about a litre.    Over winter, this could freeze, but more importantly, if the water stays where it is, it gradually becomes stagnant.   What I decided to do was to add an additional drain in the hot pipes.    So now, having drained the cold water, when the hot drain is opened, about two extra mugs full of water drains out.   Of course, in most layouts the pipework snakes it's way over the wheel arch so there's still more water left in the rear end hot pipes.   A couple of lung fulls of air, blown into the shower hose quickly forces the remaining water up and over the wheel arch and out to the drain leaving all the pipes empty.

The picture shows the changed layout.   Blue pipes are cold.   Red pipes are hot.   The hot pipe has been extended and rather than use a flip lever drain valve, I've used a JohnGuest ball valve.

[Image: IMG-20201120-152450.jpg]
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#7
(20-11-2020, 08:56 PM)Jaydug Wrote: I've also been doing some work on my water system these last few days.   You will all know that when you open the drain valve before returning home, a lot of the water remains in the hot water pipework.   In fact, all the water below the level of the tank's top union remains in the pipes - about a litre.    Over winter, this could freeze, but more importantly, if the water stays where it is, it gradually becomes stagnant.   What I decided to do was to add an additional drain in the hot pipes.    So now, having drained the cold water, when the hot drain is opened, about two extra mugs full of water drains out.   Of course, in most layouts the pipework snakes it's way over the wheel arch so there's still more water left in the rear end hot pipes.   A couple of lung fulls of air, blown into the shower hose quickly forces the remaining water up and over the wheel arch and out to the drain leaving all the pipes empty.

The picture shows the changed layout.   Blue pipes are cold.   Red pipes are hot.   The hot pipe has been extended and rather than use a flip lever drain valve, I've used a JohnGuest ball valve.

[Image: IMG-20201120-152450.jpg]

That's a great idea JD, good to see that you had ample room to enable you to work.
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#8
(22-11-2020, 11:11 AM)AlfiesDad Wrote: That's a great idea JD, good to see that you had ample room to enable you to work.

Thank you. While I was at it, I also changed the position of the cold water drain. Now I can reach both taps through the bed locker door.

Picture shows the old position of the flip switch drain.

[Image: IMG-20200318-150403.jpg]
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